You walk into the living room. Your favorite slippers are shredded. The baseboard is gnawed. The trash bin is exploded. Your dog tilts its head at you, tongue hanging out, tail wagging — as if to say, “What? I was just bored.”

Sound familiar? If so, you’re not cursed. Your dog’s behavior is normal — natural, even — but that doesn’t mean you have to accept the mess. With a bit of detective work, planning, and consistency, you can stop the chaos and save your furniture.

Step 1 – Be a Behavior Detective

Before you unleash sprays or punishments, you’ve got to figure out why your dog is chewing or scratching. According to dog-behavior experts, the first thing you must know is what, when, and where the destruction happens.

What is being destroyed? Is it shoes, blankets, remote controls — or more structural items like door frames or walls?

When does it happen? When you’re gone? When you’re busy? After a walk? At night?

Where in the house does it happen? At doors? By windows? On furniture?

These clues tell you whether the cause is boredom, energy overflow, anxiety (like separation anxiety), instincts (like digging or chewing), or even medical issues (teething, skin irritation, tooth pain)

Step 2 – Rule Out Medical or Psychological Causes

If the chewing or scratching started suddenly — especially in an adult dog — you might be dealing with pain, allergies, dental problems, or even a condition like pica (the urge to chew or eat non-food items).

Before blaming the dog, book a vet visit. A quick check can save you weeks of frustration (and protect your dog’s health — destructive chewing can damage gums, crack teeth, or hide bigger issues).

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Step 3 – Manage the Environment (Because Out of Sight = Out of Destruction)

Imagine leaving a toddler alone with a room full of toys and fragile china — chaos is inevitable. Dogs are no different. If theirs is a destructive streak, step 1 is dog-proofing:

Put shoes, clothes, electronics — anything chewable — in closed closets or high shelves.

Use baby gates, crates, or playpens to block access to risky areas (especially when you can’t supervise).

When you’re out, don’t leave loose items sitting around. Let the room be boring.

A dry environment without temptation reduces your dog’s chances of sneaking a chew (or scratch) session when you’re not looking.

Step 4 – Give Them What They Really Need: Chew Toys, Exercise & Mental Work

If you limit access but only rely on restraint, your dog will still be frustrated. Instead, redirect that energy — and chewing instinct — toward acceptable outlets:

Chew toys & puzzles: Durable chew toys, rope toys, KONGs stuffed with treats or food, and puzzle toys give dogs something safe to gnaw on. Rotate them every few days so they stay interesting.

Physical exercise: A good walk, a run, a game of tug or fetch — burning off excess energy reduces restlessness and destructive urges.

Mental stimulation: Training sessions, scent games, hide-and-seek, interactive toys — dogs need “brain work,” not just “body work.” Boredom is a powerful impulse generator for chewing or scratching.

Step 5 – Redirect & Reinforce Good Behavior — Never Punish

When you see your dog heading for the wrong item (say, your shoe), don’t wait until it’s shredded to act. Interrupt calmly — say their name, make a gentle noise — then offer a toy instead. Once they grab the toy, reward them with praise or a treat.

If they swallowed something dangerous, get them to the vet immediately. But if it’s just a chewing habit — break it early. Your dog doesn’t “get” yelling after the fact. They just get confused or scared — and that often makes the problem worse.

Step 6 – Add Deterrents and Barriers (When Needed)

When prevention and redirection alone aren’t enough, you can strengthen your defenses:

Bitterspray — a safe, unpleasant-tasting spray you apply to off-limit areas (furniture legs, door frames, baseboards). Over time, the dog learns “that’s nasty — stay away.”

Block visual triggers — if your dog scratches at doors or windows because they see squirrels or cats outside, use curtains or place a barrier to block the view.

Use confinement appropriately — crates or pens aren’t punishment. Used smartly, they keep your dog safe and out of trouble when you can’t supervise. Never use them as a “time-out from destruction.”

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Step 7 – When to Call the Pros

If you’ve tried everything — enrichment, toys, exercise, redirection, deterrents — but the destruction keeps happening… it may be time to talk to a behaviorist or vet.

Especially if your dog is chewing their skin, obsessively licking, or biting at themselves.

What looks like mischief might be anxiety, pain, or compulsive behavior.

The Bottom Line: Treat the Cause, Not Just the Symptom

Smacked-on bitter sprays and post-accident yelling might patch up your chewed-up couch — but they don’t solve the underlying problem.

If your dog is acting out, it’s not because it’s “bad.” It’s because something’s missing: mental stimulation, physical outlet, proper guidance, or relief from stress or pain.

Being a good dog owner isn’t about enforcing a no-chew decree. It’s about fulfilling your dog’s needs.

Sooner or later, if they’re left with empty energy, sharp teeth, and nothing to do — they’ll make their own entertainment, and that entertainment might be your shoe, door frame, or carpet.

Invest in exercise. Invest in toys. Invest in routine. And invest in understanding your dog’s mind.

That turns your home from “chew zone” into “safe zone” — for you, your wallet, and your dog’s well-being.

Your dog isn’t trying to destroy. They’re trying to communicate.

It’s your job to listen, respond, and give them the right outlet for their instincts. Do that — and you’ll save more than furniture.

You’ll save peace of mind.